by Betsy Power
It
was cold and dark at 4:30 a.m. I was told it was best to travel this early to
avoid the terrorists. The native bean producers I was on route to visit were
only 60 miles from Huancayo, but in the Peruvian Andes this equated to a
butt-numbing 3 hour ride on some of the worse roads I have ever felt.
Once over
the 14,000 foot pass, the sun started to rise and bring the blood back to my
extremities, but it also shed light on the frightening precipice to my left as
we crawled along, clinging to the side of mountains.
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| Trout |
This
is my third trip to Peru in search of native sustainably produced foods. And I
have fallen in love - with the country, its people, and especially its food. In
the last three weeks I have visited an organic trout
cooperative in a lake neighboring Lago Titicaca, producers of kañiwa and quinoa in
the high altiplano, a community of farmers who grow maize and native beans
using the corn stalks as beanpoles, a family of native potato farmers, a cooperative of gooseberry producers, a community of
Quechua women who harvest sauco (elderberry)
from their wild trees to supplement the family income, a community of fair
trade cacao producers in the fringes of the Amazonian jungle, and an
association of mesquite producers who jointly
manage an organic native mesquite forest.
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| ceremonial Pachamanca |
In every case, the producers are either certified organic or working towards
certification, in a country that places no value on organic produce. It is a
leap of faith for these producers to go against the norm and they look to the
outside world to keep this faith alive. In many of my visits, I am the first
and only Gringa that has ever visited their farm, town, or community. As in the
outskirts of Huancayo, where the tiny village of Dos de Mayo received me with a
heartfelt speech and the ceremonial Pachamanca
– a traditional meal cooked in the ground for three hours. Layers of native
potatoes, whole chickens, homemade sweet tamales (humitas), and fresh lima
beans in their pods, intermixed with hot stones, covered in cloth and earth.
When it is time to eat everyone starts digging to uncover the wonders that the
earth has provided. It was perhaps the most amazing meals I have ever
participated in.
The Andean region is home to one of the most important centers of
genetic diversity in the world. Peru alone has over 35 species of corn, 2500 varieties of
potatoes, 3000 varieties of sweet potato, and 650 native species of fruit. Because
of Peru’s unique geography, its pre-Incan heritage, Spanish conquerors, and
influences from a plethora of immigrants ranging from African to Japanese,
Peruvian cuisine combines the flavors of four continents.
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| Purple Corn |
In many of the surrounding countries, native
cuisine was lost to outside influences, but in the high Andes and the low jungles, the
native people fought to preserve their cultural and culinary customs. In recent years, the western world has
begun to benefit from this foresight with such unique and highly nutritious grains
as amaranth and
quinoa (known as the “mother grain” to the
Incas), tropical fruits like the gooseberry,
and enervating supplements such as maca. But
have you heard of kañiwa, tarwi, lucuma, panca chili, camu camu,
huacatay or pussac punay beans?
Considering the amount of energy it takes to reach these producers, it is not
difficult to understand why some of these foods have never made it out of their
immediate region, let alone the county. And why it is extremely rare for these
communities to receive outside visitors, especially a blue-eyed, freckled
Gringa.
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| Sauco (Elderberry tree) |
But
despite the rough roads (the threat of terrorists, the lung-collapsing
altitudes or smothering jungle heat, the bugs, the latrines, and at times
questionable hygiene), rooting out these foods is well worth the effort. It is
inspiring to meet farmers dedicated to producing native products in ways that
are restorative to their environment. I have learned so much about the food
that we import and that I eat on a regular basis – did you know that mesquite trees can grow to 40 meters in height, with
a similar depth under ground? Or that cacao trees are polygamous, producing
many different varieties of pods on the same branch? I have a notebook full of
information and a hard drive overwhelmed with pictures and videos. And I will
be sharing all of this in subsequent blogs as I continue to write of my travels
and travails, seeking out foods that are truly rooted
in their communities.